Paris, Day Two – The Orsay Museum and the Eiffel Tower

Tuesday, May 7

Due to jetlag (and a few extra naps), we woke up very early on Tuesday and decided to take advantage of the morning light for photography. We wanted to see Notre Dame again and thought we’d just walk over for a little while. Like many of our outings on this trip, we got caught up in the scenery and “let’s just see what’s up here a little ways” (sound familiar, Dad?), so we ended up walking all morning. It was overcast but the cathedral still looked amazing. As a bonus, the streets were deserted.

We walked all over the Île de la Cité and Île St Louis and ended up at Le Village St Paul, an area of little courtyards and alleys with dozens of antique and vintage shops. That was a happy accident since I’d read about it before our trip but had completely forgotten that I wanted to do a little shopping there. Since it was early, the shops were closed but we had fun window-shopping (called faire du leche-vitrines in French, or “licking the windows”) and had something else to add to our already huge Must See list.

One the way home, we found BHV, Bazaar de L’Hotel de Ville, an enormous department store with everything from hardware in the basement to art supplies, fine stationery, luggage and books on the upper floors, not to mention two separate restaurants.

BHV

The Parisian version of Home Depot, Macy’s and Barnes & Noble all rolled into one.

We brought a power converter and a power strip for our cameras, phones and various electronics but found out once we unpacked that the converter only accepted a two-pronged plug and virtually everything else was a three-pronged grounded plug. We figured if we could find it in Paris, it’d be at BHV. While we waited for the store to open at ten, we walked around the Hotel de Ville, the central administrative offices for Paris. (It isn’t quite the same as an American city hall. Paris is divided into eighteen districts, called arrondissements, each of which has a mayor.) Municipal offices have been on this site since 1357.

Hotel de Ville

A huge amount of public records from the time of the French Revolution were lost when the the building burned to the ground in 1871. It was rebuilt over the course of 19 years and the current incarnation was completed in 1892.

Hotel de Ville

Statues of famous (male) Parisians decorated the sides. I only found one woman who merited a place on the walls, Madame Marie Thérèse Rodet Geoffrin, a patron of philosophers and intellectuals of the French Enlightenment.

Madame Geoffrin

We spent an entertaining hour at BHV and bought a grounded adaptor (so we could at least charge my laptop), two fountain pens and postcards. Afterwards, we stopped at Stratto, a lunch counter staffed by more friendly Parisians. Like most locals we encountered, they spoke a fair amount of English but laughingly said they wouldn’t let us leave until we spoke at least a little French! They even taught us a new word, emporter, (food) to go.

On our way home, we saw one of the Art Deco style Métro stations with a pretty blooming tree as a backdrop.

Metro Station

I’d read that there were only a few of these stations left, most having been modernized. Happily, I was misinformed and we ended up seeing quite a few around the city.

After enjoying our tasty Stratto sandwiches and a nap, we headed to our first museum, Musée d’Orsay, dedicated to Impressionism.

As part of my pre-trip research, I’d looked at the catalogs of the museums we’d be visiting and made notes of all the paintings I wanted to see. While I love that museums make so much art and information available online, there’s really no substitute for seeing them in person. Jim was an art major and was a great source of information about techniques and schools. He pointed out the brush strokes and layers of paint and the way their textures add to the painting.

I took an Art History class in college and, of course, know the famous Impressionists like Claude Monet, Paul Cézanne and Pierre-Auguste Renoir but it was a treat to see the work of many other important artists in the genre and some unknown (to me) works by the big names.

La Pie (The Magpie), a landscape by Monet, was painted in Normandy but really reminded me of northern New Mexico.

Original file Wikimedia Commons.

Public domain image via Wikimedia Commons.

My favorite Impressionist is Vincent Van Gogh and the Orsay owns several of his works, including one of the Starry Night paintings. I learned on this trip that there is more than one Starry Night painting. The most well-known is at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The Orsay owns Starry Night Over the Rhone. I was a tiny bit disappointed when I realized it wasn’t the Starry Night but Over the Rhone was quite beautiful, too.

That completely dissipated though, when I saw Thatched Cottages at Cordeville.

Original photo at http://www.wikipaintings.org/en/vincent-van-gogh/houses-with-thatched-roofs-cordeville-1890#close

Public domain image via WikiPaintings

The room in which it was displayed was warm and crowded but I was able to work my way to the front after a few minutes. Standing there in the dimmed room with the light falling on the canvas, I got chills. The colors and the movement – so much energy in a static image. I could almost see the trees blowing in the wind, feel the sun on my skin, smell the grass and the dirt and the gardens. Incredible.

Cordeville is a small village near Auvers-sur-Oise where Van Gogh moved in 1890 after leaving the aslyum at Saint-Remy. He was taken with the thatched roofs in the area and recognized that they were becoming rare even then. Thatched Cottages was completed just a few months before his death in July, 1890.

After a few hours at the Orsay (with many breaks to rest our feet), we headed back home for dinner. We then headed out to see that most famous Parisian landmark, La Tour Eiffel.

La Tour Eiffel.

La Tour Eiffel

People were sitting all over the park in front of the tower, chatting, picnicking and drinking wine. Enterprising young men were walking around selling trinkets, miniature Eiffel Towers, glow-in-the-dark bracelets and, of course, wine.

At the top of the hour, the Tower sparkles for about five minutes. We arrived just in time! You can see a bit of my iPhone video here: Sparkling Eiffel Tower.

To ride to the top requires a ticket and the lines can be quite long, apparently. We decided to just to walk around under the tower and skip the trip to the top. The engineering of the base is impressive (and was undergoing maintenance of some kind).

Maintenance on the Eiffel Tower

Next time on SLWS, A Rainy Day At The Louvre:

Rainy Paris from the Louvre

Advertisements

6 thoughts on “Paris, Day Two – The Orsay Museum and the Eiffel Tower

  1. Barbara

    Fantastic blog with pictures! Perfect for the armchair traveler who never expects to make that trip. As much as she would like to. Looking forward to the next part of the jaunt.

    Reply
    1. Kate Post author

      Thanks. I kept up on my travel journal pretty well for the first week or so. After that, I’m going to have to rely on my travel partner’s (very good) memory to supplement my meager notes.

      Reply
  2. Lyn

    I can’t imagine seeing some of the sights you’ve seen and the age of them is overwhelming. You’ve very lucky to have been able to take a trip like this!

    Reply
    1. Kate Post author

      Thanks for reading, Lyn. The age of the surroundings was amazing. Here in Portland, the oldest building is barely over 150 years old. In Paris, that’s practically modern construction.

      Reply
  3. Julie

    Kate, thanks so much for sharing esp La Pie. That is a Monet I’ll never get to see but I appreciate you taking me with you.

    Reply

I encourage feedback from readers - on content, on my writing, on anything at all! Feel free to add a comment below.

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s